Leak or no hot water? Start here
Found water? Do this first
Gauge the flow
A damp patch or a few drips is different from a steady stream. Note which, because it sets the urgency.
Find the start point
From a safe distance, see whether water is dripping from above, running down the side, or appearing under the base.
Close the main if needed
If water is flowing and you know where the house's main shutoff is and can reach it safely, close it.
Hands off the heater
Do not open the drain valve, touch the relief valve, or disconnect anything. Move belongings clear and call.
If there is a smell of gas, leave now and call the gas utility and emergency services from outside.
If a carbon monoxide alarm is sounding, leave and call emergency services from outside.
Where leaks come from
| Where the water is | Usual cause | Typical outcome |
|---|---|---|
| Fittings on top of the tank | Loose or corroded connections, a worn nipple or shutoff valve | Often repairable |
| The relief valve pipe | The valve opening because of temperature or pressure, or a worn valve | Needs diagnosis; see below |
| The drain valve near the base | A worn or partly open valve, sometimes clogged with sediment | Often repairable |
| Under the tank or from the shell | Corrosion through the lined steel tank | Replacement |
| Around a gas or oil burner area | Could be condensation, or water dripping from above | Needs a closer look |
Water runs downhill and along pipes, so the puddle is not always under the source. Tracing it properly is the technician's first job.
When the relief valve is the source
The temperature and pressure relief valve is there to open if conditions inside the tank go beyond what it is set for. If it drips or discharges, it is doing its job, and the question is why. Common reasons include water that is too hot, pressure that rises as water heats in a system with nowhere for it to expand, and a valve that has simply worn. Some well systems and homes with check valves are closed systems, which is where an expansion tank comes in. The valve must never be plugged or capped; see pressure relief valve service.
What makes leaks more likely here
Well water and corrosion
Some private well water wears through anode rods faster than town water does. Once the anode is used up, the tank itself starts to corrode, and the end result is a leak from the shell. Checking and replacing the anode rod is one of the few things that helps a tank last in those conditions.
Condensation that looks like a leak
In a cool cellar, very cold inlet water can make the cold pipes and the lower part of a freshly filled tank sweat, and a gas or propane burner can produce condensation when it first fires on a cold tank. The result can look like a slow leak. It usually settles once the tank is up to temperature, but it is worth having checked rather than assumed.
Indirect tanks beside a boiler
Where an indirect tank stands next to an oil boiler, water on the floor between them could come from the tank, its connections, or the boiler side of the system. The indirect tank's fittings, drain valve and relief valve are all common leak points, just as on any other tank. The local installers deal with the water heater side and will tell you plainly if the water is coming from the boiler instead, which is outside this service.
Old connections
In older homes, the fittings around a heater may have been in place through more than one tank. Corroded nipples, tired shutoff valves and mixed metals are common leak points and are usually replaced during a repair.
What not to do
- Open the drain valve to empty the tank
- Lift, cap or plug the relief valve or its pipe
- Tighten or loosen fittings on a tank under pressure
- Touch fuel lines, burner parts, electrical connections or venting
A tank under pressure and full of hot water is not a DIY job, and a leak that looks minor can get worse quickly if a corroded fitting is disturbed.
Describe the leak and we will judge the urgency with you.
How a leak is traced and fixed
The technician dries the area, runs the heater and watches where water appears. They check the connections on top, the relief valve and its discharge, the drain valve, the burner or element areas, and the base of the tank. If the source is a fitting or valve, they explain the repair and price it before doing it. If the tank shell is leaking, they explain why it cannot be repaired and talk through replacement, including any access issues in your cellar.
What affects the cost of leaking water heater repair
- The source: a fitting or valve costs far less than a failed tank
- Related parts: corroded shutoffs or connectors are often best replaced together
- Water damage: cleanup of floors or finishes is separate from the heater work
- Timing: night and holiday calls cost more than scheduled ones
Every repair is priced before it begins.
How long leaking water heater repair takes in Connecticut
Tracing the source is usually done during the visit. Replacing a valve or fitting is normally quick once the heater has been made safe. A leak from the tank shell means a replacement, and the timing then depends on access and having the right heater available.
Leaking water heater questions
How urgent is a leaking water heater?
A steady flow of water is, particularly if it is heading into a finished space. A small drip from a fitting into a pan or near a floor drain can usually wait for a daytime visit. If you are not sure, call and describe it; we will tell you honestly which it sounds like.
Can a leak from the bottom of the tank be fixed?
If the water is coming from the drain valve, often yes. If it is coming from the tank shell itself, or seeping from under the base with rust around it, the lined steel tank has corroded through, and the only fix is replacement.
Why is water dripping from the pipe on the side of my heater?
That pipe comes from the temperature and pressure relief valve. It releases water when conditions inside the tank call for it, or when the valve itself is worn. Either way it needs checking. Never cap or plug the pipe; call and have the cause found.
My new heater seems to be leaking but the tank is dry by afternoon. Why?
That is often condensation. Cold inlet water, especially from a well, can make a freshly filled tank and its pipes sweat in a cool cellar, and burners can create condensation as they warm a cold tank. It is worth having checked to be sure it is not a real leak.
Does well water make leaks more likely?
Some well water wears out anode rods faster, and once the anode is gone the tank itself starts to corrode. Keeping an eye on the anode, and flushing sediment, are the practical ways to deal with it. The technician can look at your tank's condition on any visit.
Should I drain the tank to stop the leak?
No. Draining a tank under pressure and full of hot water is a job for the technician. If water is spreading, close the home's main water shutoff if you know where it is and can reach it safely, then call.
Will you deal with the water damage too?
The local installers deal with the water heater. Drying out or repairing floors, walls and belongings is separate work. The technician can at least stop the source quickly so the damage does not spread.
How can I spot a leak early?
Glance at the base of the heater now and then, especially in a finished basement. A drain pan with a sensor alarm can give early warning. Rust streaks, a damp ring or a new ticking drip are all worth a call before they become a flood.